The Redken Color Gels permanent hair color line is a staple in many professional salons, known for its predictable results, extensive charter of shades, and reliable performance. Understanding the Color Gels charter is crucial for any stylist aiming to achieve consistent and beautiful color transformations. This isn't just about picking a pretty color; it's about understanding the underlying pigments, the level system, and how each shade interacts with different hair types and existing color. The Color Gels charter offers a wide spectrum, from vibrant reds and coppers to cool ash blondes and rich browns, allowing for endless customization and personalized color creations. Knowing the nuances of each shade empowers stylists to formulate with confidence, ensuring client satisfaction and minimizing unexpected results. Furthermore, familiarity with the charter allows for efficient and accurate color corrections, a critical skill for any professional colorist.
Understanding the Redken Level System
The foundation of any good color service begins with understanding the level system. Redken, like most professional hair color brands, uses a numerical system to denote the depth or darkness of a hair color. Typically, this ranges from 1 to 10, with 1 being the darkest black and 10 being the lightest blonde. Understanding where your client's hair currently sits on this level system is crucial for determining the appropriate Color Gels shade and developer volume. For example, if a client with a level 5 wants to achieve a level 8 blonde, you'll need to lift the hair three levels. This requires a higher volume developer and careful monitoring to avoid over-processing. Conversely, if a client wants to go darker, say from a level 7 to a level 5, you'll need to fill the missing underlying pigments to prevent the color from appearing muddy or ashy. The level system provides a common language for stylists and clients, facilitating clear communication and realistic expectations.
Decoding the Shade Numbers
Beyond the level, each Redken Color Gels shade is identified by a series of numbers that indicate the tone or reflect of the color. The number after the decimal point represents the primary tone, while any subsequent numbers indicate secondary or tertiary tones. For example, a shade like 6.34 would be a level 6 with a primary gold (.3) and a secondary copper (.4) tone. Redken's Color Gels charter clearly defines the meaning of each number, allowing stylists to accurately predict the final color result. Understanding these number codes is especially important when formulating custom shades or correcting unwanted tones. By knowing the underlying pigments, stylists can neutralize unwanted warmth or enhance desired cool tones. For instance, if a client's blonde has pulled too warm, a shade with a violet or blue reflect can be used to counteract the brassiness.
The Importance of Undertones
All hair, whether natural or previously colored, possesses underlying pigments or undertones. These undertones become more visible when the hair is lightened. Typically, darker hair will reveal red undertones, medium brown hair will reveal orange undertones, and lighter brown hair will reveal yellow undertones. Understanding these underlying pigments is critical for achieving the desired final color result. For example, if a client with dark brown hair wants to achieve a cool ash blonde, the stylist will need to neutralize the underlying red and orange tones before depositing the desired ash blonde shade. Failure to do so can result in a brassy or warm blonde. The Redken Color Gels charter provides information on the underlying pigments of each shade, allowing stylists to choose the appropriate toners and developers to achieve the desired result. This knowledge is particularly important when performing color corrections, as it allows stylists to address unwanted tones and create a balanced and harmonious color.
Gray Coverage with Color Gels
One of the most common needs for hair color clients is gray coverage. Redken Color Gels are formulated to provide excellent coverage on even the most resistant gray hair. When formulating for gray coverage, it's important to consider the percentage of gray hair, the desired level, and the client's skin tone. For clients with a high percentage of gray, a neutral shade with a natural base is often recommended to provide the best coverage. Additionally, it's crucial to use the appropriate developer volume to ensure that the cuticle is properly opened and the color is fully deposited. The Redken Color Gels charter also includes shades specifically designed for gray coverage, often denoted with an "N" for natural or "NN" for double natural. These shades provide maximum coverage and prevent the gray from appearing translucent or wiry. Understanding the nuances of gray coverage is essential for building a loyal clientele.
Mixing and Application Techniques
Achieving optimal results with Redken Color Gels requires proper mixing and application techniques. The standard mixing ratio for Color Gels is typically 1:1, meaning one part color to one part developer. However, this ratio may vary depending on the desired consistency and the specific technique being used. For example, when using a bottle application, a slightly thinner consistency may be preferred for easier application. It's crucial to follow the manufacturer's instructions for mixing and processing times to ensure consistent and predictable results. The application technique also plays a significant role in the final outcome. Whether using a bowl and brush, a bottle applicator, or a foil highlighting technique, it's important to apply the color evenly and thoroughly. When covering gray hair, it's crucial to saturate the roots completely to prevent any visible regrowth. Proper mixing and application techniques are essential for maximizing the performance of Redken Color Gels and achieving beautiful, long-lasting color.
Formulating for Different Hair Types and Textures
Hair type and texture can significantly impact how color processes and the final result. Porous hair, for example, tends to absorb color more quickly, which can lead to darker or more intense results. In contrast, coarse hair may be more resistant to color, requiring a longer processing time or a higher volume developer. When formulating for different hair types and textures, it's important to consider these factors and adjust the formulation accordingly. For porous hair, using a lower volume developer or reducing the processing time can help prevent over-processing. For coarse hair, pre-softening the hair with a pre-color treatment can help improve color absorption. Understanding how different hair types and textures react to color is crucial for achieving consistent and predictable results with Redken Color Gels. The charter should always be consulted.
Color Correction with Redken Color Gels
Color correction is one of the most challenging but rewarding services a hair stylist can offer. Redken Color Gels provide a versatile range of shades and tones that can be used to correct a variety of color issues, such as brassiness, banding, or uneven color. When performing a color correction, it's important to first identify the underlying cause of the problem. This may involve analyzing the client's hair history, assessing the current color level and tone, and identifying any underlying pigments that need to be neutralized. Once the cause of the problem has been identified, a corrective formula can be created using Redken Color Gels. This may involve using toners to neutralize unwanted tones, fillers to replace missing pigments, or lighteners to lift the hair to the desired level. Color correction often requires multiple steps and careful monitoring to achieve the desired result. A thorough understanding of the Redken Color Gels charter is essential for successful color correction.
Neutralizing Unwanted Tones
One of the most common color correction issues is dealing with unwanted tones, such as brassiness in blondes or red tones in brunettes. Redken Color Gels offer a range of toners that can be used to neutralize these unwanted tones and create a more balanced and harmonious color. For example, blue or violet-based toners can be used to counteract brassiness in blondes, while green-based toners can be used to neutralize red tones in brunettes. When using toners, it's important to choose the appropriate level and tone to achieve the desired result. Over-toning can lead to a muddy or dull color, while under-toning may not effectively neutralize the unwanted tones. It's also important to consider the client's hair history and porosity when formulating with toners, as porous hair may absorb toner more quickly, leading to uneven results. Careful formulation and application are essential for achieving successful results when neutralizing unwanted tones with Redken Color Gels. Always refer to the charter.
Maintaining Color Vibrancy
Once the desired color has been achieved, it's important to educate clients on how to maintain the vibrancy and longevity of their color. Redken offers a range of color-safe shampoos, conditioners, and styling products that can help protect the hair from fading and damage. These products are formulated with gentle cleansing agents and nourishing ingredients that help to keep the hair healthy and vibrant. It's also important to advise clients to avoid excessive heat styling, which can strip the hair of its color. Using a heat protectant spray before heat styling can help minimize damage and prevent color fading. Regular trims can also help to keep the hair healthy and prevent split ends, which can make the color appear dull. By educating clients on proper hair care practices, stylists can help them maintain the beauty and vibrancy of their Redken Color Gels color for longer.
Conclusion
Mastering the Redken Color Gels charter is an ongoing process of learning and experimentation. By understanding the level system, shade numbers, undertones, and application techniques, stylists can unlock the full potential of this versatile color line and create beautiful, customized color results for their clients. Continuous education and a commitment to staying up-to-date with the latest trends and techniques are essential for success in the ever-evolving world of hair color. Embrace the charter, explore the possibilities, and create stunning hair transformations that will leave your clients feeling confident and beautiful. Don't forget the crucial role of application in color services. Color formulation is important, but perfect results matter. Take time to watch and learn!
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